# Snake help. *Update* New Snake!!!!



## Kiko (Sep 18, 2009)

My ball python Anastazia passed away this week. I am unsure of the causes, she was about 6 years old. She was very healthy up until recently, when in a very short amount of time she lost a lot of weight, stopped having successful sheds, and started to regurgitate her meals. I was very concered so I made her a vet appointment, but 2 days before it I found her dead in her tank. I am VERY upset, I was very attached to her and I don't know what was wrong with her. I am not a reptile expert and would like some insight. 

And on a different, lighter note. I have decided I like snakes to much not to have one. So I am attending another Reptile Expo on the 23rd of this month (this will be my fifth yay!), hundreds of breeders and hobbyists selling snakes. It's where I got Anastazia 2 years ago. They have the most amazing displays and selections of Arachnids, lizards, amphibians, and best of all Snakes!!!
I know I want another snake, but I am unsure of what exactly. If I should maybe get another Ball Python, I am also very interested in Kenyan Sand Boas. I want a snake that's going to be docile, and can be handled without be being concerned about bites and one that does not need a tank larger then 20-30 gallons. So far I have been interested Corns, BPs, and Kenyan Sand boas.

I love snakes, but I AM afraid of some snakes. Carpet Pythons scare me so bad for some reason.


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## EddiesRats (Sep 29, 2011)

KSB all the way. Theyre like little worms. and males top out at around 16-24 in. So it would do well in a 20-30 gal tank


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## Terpsichore (May 28, 2011)

You might want to consider a Woma python. They are easy to care for since they live in desert climates and they are super relaxed. They are the kind of snake you can hang on your neck and not have to worry. I know someone with one that is pretty large, but if you feed them moderately, they do not get too much larger than a female ball python. I hear they can be a bit nippy when they are young, but I have never encountered an adult that tries to bite. They do not need it too warm, so you can save a bit on the electricity bill. Adults are fine with room temperatures at night. They are also relatively active. They are not picky eaters, which I know can be a big draw back with some snakes. They will probably cost more than a Cornsnake or Ball Python, although I have no idea what the prices are like in the USA.

My personal favorite snake is the Western Hognose Snake. They are sort of timid when approached, so maybe they are not for you. They hiss at you and lunge. It is just to seem intimidating as they actually lunge with their mouth closed. They flatten their neck to try and make their head look like a rattle snakes. They are really tame once you pick them up. They are one of the three snakes in the world that play dead. Although, for some unknown reason, it is uncommon for captive Hognoses to play dead. They can even willing bleed from their mouths to enhance their act. They are also good eaters. I have seen a picture of a Hognose eating chicken. They naturally eat reptiles. They are also diggers like Sand Boas. They are day active, so you get to see them a lot. They stay small. Most males will not get over a foot long and females reach 2 feet maximum. Best of all is their upturned nose! I should probably mention that they are rear fang venomous. However, their poison is of no harm to people and probably also rats and other animals as it is really meant for small reptiles. Even hear in Munich, where all poisonous snakes are prohibited, they are permitted. They also hibernate like Cornsnakes. They do not need it too warm and they even live as far north as the most southern regions of Canada.

I like Sand Boas too, but I do not know too much about their care.

I have to agree that Carpet Pythons look very intimidating. I think it's their head.


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## Kinsey (Jun 14, 2009)

Hog noses are really cute, but they do have a venom much like a bee sting. To those badly allergic, it can be dangerous, but, you have to stick your whole finger in the mouth anyway before it even reaches you.

I'm partial to KSBs. I have one, a little female named Curses. She's incredibly clever and gentle, very tolerant. She seems to even enjoy handling. She eats okay, sometimes it takes some wiggling and for a week before each shed she refuses food. She is very young and growing fast, so she sheds monthly. I feed F/T, and unless she is shedding, she will eat it. I usually have her in a tank with reptile sand, and a heat mat under part of it. They cannot have too much humidity, or it will kill them, so many keepers do not offer water except weekly. I think that is cruel, as Curses drinks her water dish to empty more often than that. As long as it doesn't raise humidity it is okay, and mine is very small so it won't. They do hide a lot, but as Curses has gotten comfortable she is more outgoing. I see her more, and she is happy to be out of hiding sometimes.

I absolutely suggest KSBs, they can live in 20 gallons, males in 10. Females hit 3 foot at the largest. 

I've heard good things about corns, they are a fairly simple to keep species, and I like BPs.


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## Kiko (Sep 18, 2009)

I have decided to first get another Ball Python, And then after it has settled to get a KSB. I have been doing some research on IBD snake virus, and I am pretty sure it is what killed Anastazia. And since it effects Boids (boas, pythons) When I do get my 2nd snake after I get the BP at the expo, I will be doing a 3-6 month quarantine before allowing them in the same air space.

I have also disposed of Anastazia's bin enclosure and all her hides. And am making new ones for the new snakes, I am not risking any contamination.


And next question! I need some help on adequate heating and maintaining humidity levels of a BP enclosure. I am buying a thermostat, and a duel probe Humidity/Temp gauge, and using a UTH. What are the best ways to maintain the ideal humidity levels, and should I invest in a ceramic heat emmitter for a basking spot? Should I bother with day/night light cycles? I have a reptile timer to control what times lights go on and off left over from my Beardie.

Also as for the enclosure, I am getting a baby BP and what some advice on this. The enclosure I am building is a plastic bin, roughly to footprint of a ten gallon tank but with double the depth. it is a short tank about 8 inches tall. I am drilling holes all around, and attaching the UTH to the designated hot side. And I want to know if I should cut a portion of the lid and add metal mesh so I can use a ceramic emitter for the basking spot.


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## Ratsanctuary (Mar 24, 2011)

Our heat thing for our reptiles is kinda makeshift for the moment, we have an electric heat blanket folded and weaved thru the levels of our shelf with the aquariums are on top of it half way anyways. That way they have a warm side and a cool side. We were told also to mist the snake enclosures and raise the heat so the humidity level would rise. My snake is thriving really well. But my bf's snake is still having issues but we think he had his issues before we got him.


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## Kinsey (Jun 14, 2009)

Get a reptile heat mat with an attachable thermostat (not sure how these work, but...) and put it under half of her cage. I think BPs are a species who soak, so you need a water dish large enough for that. Put that on the cool side, along with a hide. Put another hide on the warm side.

You will need to be sure there is adequete ventilation for her, as well.

Try reptilechannel.com, they have forums, and caresheets. They'll be more help than I will since I don't know much about BPs.


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## Kiko (Sep 18, 2009)

I already have and use the UTH (under tank heater) and am installing the thermostat with it once I order it from bigappleherps. My main issue was being able to successful maintain that heat while maintaining humidity.
I always preferred plastic bin enclosures, they contain humidity much better. I am going to make my baby-snake enclosure and post some pics for opinions. It only costed my 5 bucks to get the supplies for lol. So if it's a tragedy I wont be set back.


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## Terpsichore (May 28, 2011)

I would skip the ceramic heater, they are horrible for humidity. They also get extremely hot. This way there is no need to worry about you or your new snake getting burned.

Two rows of holes, spaced about 1.5-2 inches apart, on the front and back of the bin will be enough for ventilation and air flow. This will help maintain heat and humidity. You will probably need an extra hole for your thermostat probe. If you make sure to make the holes are off the ground, you can reuse the enclosure for your future Sand Boa. You might want to consider making a wooden frame to go around your bin to help with insulation.

Ball Pythons do not soak unless they are sick, like when they have mites. Although, a bowl with a large surface area will help maintain humidity.

As for day and night cycles: It is necessary for temperatures, but not for lighting.

Am I the only one who thinks that Ball Python heads are shaped like a duck's? Especially neonates! Who could resist a little duckie face popping out of an egg?


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## Kinsey (Jun 14, 2009)

Don't have high humidity or any added humidity at ALL in the KSB cage. It's hard to keep it low enough for them, I don't know exactly what percent they need but I don't add any at all, as it can make them very sick.

I'd even suggest fully screening the top for your sand boa.


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## Kiko (Sep 18, 2009)

So no screen for the BP, and screen for the KSB. Got it lol.

If not a ceramic heat emitter for the BP, then what? An incandescent bulb?


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## Kinsey (Jun 14, 2009)

Heat mat. In the wild they get heat through thier bellies from laying on warm things, so usually heat mats are your best bet.

I used to have a gopher snake (RIP Majik), and I put natural rocks in her cage and used a lamp to warm them. I had lots of random lamps though, so there are better ways to do that.


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## Kiko (Sep 18, 2009)

UPDATES~ 

Today was the reptile expo, I went the intention of looking at many snakes. And I did, by the end of the expo I had narrowed my choices to the Kenyan Sand Boa, the California King, the Western Hognose, or the Ball Python. After discussing with the SO, we decided to go for the California King, and maybe when we move get another snake.


But anyway, we got a baby Cali King, he is about 8 inches long and very docile. I will post some pics of him/her in the enclosure and out of it. I don't know the gender, but in a few weeks i'll take it in for sexing. I am unsure about any names yet.


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## Kinsey (Jun 14, 2009)

I want pictures. 

And congratulations on the new addition, it's awesome that you got another snake.


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## Kiko (Sep 18, 2009)




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## wheeljack (Mar 17, 2011)

Congratulations! He/she is gorgeous. I think you'll find kings are a lot less difficult to look after than balls. I can't wait for your pictures after he's grown up and filled out.


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## Kinsey (Jun 14, 2009)

Beautiful!! Congratulations on the lovely snake. <3


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## Critter Aficionado (Jan 30, 2011)

That is one gorgeous snake! I've never seen one with that coloration before. If I ever get a snake, I would love to have one like yours.


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## lexiloo (Nov 26, 2011)

Awesome coloring! Congrats on your new little guy/girl!


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