# Sticky  The Rat Forum's Beginner's Guide (Work in Progress)



## RatAtat2693

Hey guys, so a couple of you may have seen in the Lounge that we're starting a Beginner's Guide to rat ownership, an FAQ, if you will, and we need _you_ to help get this ball rolling.

So, what can you do? Well...
If you yourself are a beginner, *give us your questions.* Some of us have been doing this too long, so remembering that some people have never held a rat (properly) before is where we become relatively stupid.

If you have experience, *share it.* You don't need to be an expert to write a cage review or hook us up with some awesome links. What's your favorite site for cage covers? Where did you learn how to dose Baytril? Is sewing hammocks easy?

How many yogies could a rat yogie if a rat could make it's own yogies?! The world may never know without _you._

The point of this is that, as some of you may notice, our forum is _full of information_. But it's scattered everywhere. If we could centralize some of our core links, I think it would be much easier for those of us who are new to these fluff balls we call friends - uh, I mean rats.

Without further adieu, I'll start.

One of my all time favorite guides for sewing hammocks is:
http://www.ratropolis.com/Rat Tutorials/RatTutorials.htm
Just download the free sheet and there's about a million different patterns.

Also, post some categories for this. We also composing a master supplies list of e-v-erything you'll ever need for rat ownership, from Oxbow to toenail clippers and zip ties. So, if you feel like taking an inventory of your supplies (which I found myself doing while moving), post them here as well.

Thanks a ton, and I know there are so many n00bs :wink: out there who are thanking you as well.


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## catty-ratty

I'll add my ideas in individual posts for clarity.


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## catty-ratty

*Habitat*

*Cage Attribute Musts!!!* 

Bar spacing be no more than 1/2"
Bars should horizontal because rats need climbing space
Minimum of 2.5 square feet per rat
Cage size calculators
http://www.ratcentral.com/rat-cage-calculator/
http://ratcagecalculator.com/
http://www.ratzrus.co.uk/ratguides/r...calculator.php
 
Avoid mesh grates and bars on the levels where rats will be walking, including ramps, it's hard on their feet and can lead bumble foot
Must be well ventilated
Avoid those with plastic bottoms
Rats will often chew them to escape the cage
 
*
Helpful Cage Attributes*

Doors that are large enough for YOU to have easy access to the cage.
Makes for easier cleaning
Arranging items in the cage, hammocks, toys, hide huts, hammocks etc.
Litter box training

Raised edges to keep litter and poops inside the cage
*Cage Environment*


Lots of Hammocks
Toys and puzzles
Hide huts and other places to hide
 *Substrate*

Things to Avoid
Cedar and Pine Shavings
Should be dust free
 
Substrate Types
_Fleece_
Should be 100% polyester, wicks urine down
Absorbent layer should be placed under fleece soak to up urine
Fleece Pros
No litter to get tossed out of the cage
Easier to clean floors of cage
I personally think it's easier on the feet
More fun than shavings
Relatively inexpensive
Can be reused
 
Cons
Not always easy to secure it well to the floors and shelves
Some rats will pull it up, chew on it and burrow under it, especially if it's not well secured
 
 
 
_Shredded Paper, wood shavings_
Pros
 
***I'm not a big fan of other kinds of substrate, so someone else should list the pros
Cons
Can be messy
Can be difficult to find dust free
Even with higher edges on the shelf, it can end up outside of the cage
Can be more difficult to litter box train
Not reusable
 
 
 

For more information on cages and recommendations, see the sticky 'Choosing a Good Cage For Your Rats'
http://www.ratforum.com/showthread.php?60993-Choosing-a-Good-Cage-for-your-Rats-GUIDE


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## catty-ratty

*Question about writing the beginners guide?*

Will all of this information be reposted after it is final in it's own forum after it is finalized? I think that would be a good idea. I keep thinking of other things that should be included under habitat. We only have something like 5 minutes to edit it. I've already added or edited 3 times. 
I'm willing to write a more in depth guide in Word and then post it later. I would also like input from others so all the information can be posted in single thread. 

Also, I think listing info in bullet form would be most helpful, at least for me. The pertinent information will be easier to find without conversation in the body of it.


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## InuLing

A few pros to paper bedding:
(Even though I don't use it lol.)

No worries about chewing it up
Rats can burrow in it, removing the need for dig boxes.
Easy to clean, just dump and replace.
Low maintenance and easy to set up.


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## catty-ratty

Feeding supplies

The best ones I've found have a metal ball in the sipper. They are less likely to leak. Also, have more than one. Sometimes they malfunction, all the water leaks out or water stops flowing out.

If you use water bowls, get heavy ceramic ones or the kind that are made so they don't easily turn over, same with food bowls.
Rats will often poop in the bowel or try to cover it up. If it's covered up with absorbent material, it may soak up all the water


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## catty-ratty

I'm just going to take the 'habitat topic and ask for input as I go along and then post it when it's done.


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## InuLing

I'm posting ideas for info in this post. Actual replies for the information requested will be in separate threads for clarity and ease of reading.



A few I would love to see

Common rat ailments (Like URI's, tumors, and ear infections) as well as treatments for them, for people to be able to go to their vets with some basic knowledge.

Tips on rat-proofing a room.

Acquiring cheap/budget cage decorations.

Building your own rat toys. (Things to look for and avoid and how to make safe toys.)

Training guide, along with several common rat tricks and how to teach them.

Vet costs, averages and ways to budget vet costs (such as care creadit) and other realated info.

I'd love to see an up-to-date list of veterinary practices, breeders, and rescues in each state for rats.

Also, I would love to see a guide on choosing a new rat from any source with information from multiple people. *(I hope I don't start another flame war here because of people who want to preach to the choir about how pet store rats are the worst things on the planet. Please no one get into that argument here! It'll destroy this thread and the purpose of it.)* I don't want a guide on choosing a rat from a rescue or pet store from someone who would never or has never gotten one from a store or rescue himself/herself. I don't want to hear from someone who thinks that any rat not from a breeder deserves to be left behind to be neglected and/or killed. I want a guide on how to choose a rescue or pet store rat from someone who would choose those animals himself/herself. I wouldn't advocate pet store rats, but I know from experience that sometimes it is the only viable option and if someone is making that choice, that person needs to go into it with the best information possible. If someone doesn't agree with adopting pet store or rescue rats, he/she should just contribute to the "selecting a breeder rat" section instead.


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## InuLing

For people in NC there are two main veterinarians I know of.

Animal Ark, Clemmons, NC
Clemmons is located next to Winston Salem, 30 minutes away from High Point. This is the go-to rat vet for people in the area. They have 2 experienced rat vets who are very knowledgeable. They do neuters on Wednesdays but will not do spays unless necessary due to the high number of risks. Prices are very reasonable and great customer service.

Avian and Exotic Care, Raleigh, NC
Exotics vet in Raleigh. They only have 1 vet there for rats and are very expensive. Not recommended to go there for surgeries or specialized procedures but fine for regular issues and physicals.

As for rescues, I only know of the county shelters. I am planning to start up a small animal rescue in the area (Not just rats but all small animals. Small scale so I don't get overwhelmed. If anyone wants to help out I'd be glad for it.) but it'll probably be another 3-6 months before I'm ready to start it up. NC has a huge need for rescues and breeders. Closest rat rescue I could find was in Pittsburgh and the only breeders I could found wouldn't reply to me inquiries or hadn't updated their pages in years and probably didn't exist anymore.


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## catty-ratty

InuLing said:


> I *(I hope I don't start another flame war here because of people who want to preach to the choir about how pet store rats are the worst things on the planet. Please no one get into that argument here! It'll destroy this thread and the purpose of it.)*


Amen to that!

Another thing that would be good is a UNBIASED comparison of getting a rat from a breeder as opposed to a pet store of feeder rat. I personally think that these comments would be most helpful from people who have had all three. I've only had feeder bin and pet store rats, so I wouldn't be the best to make these comparisons. I also think these comparisons should be based on facts, not opinions. 

Matter of fact, _non-judgemental _OPINIONS can be included in a separate thread.

Both should also include pros and cons of each source.


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## InuLing

I've had rescues and pet store rats. Never had breeder rats simply because there are either no decent breeders here in NC or they've all gone into hiding. I work every day. I can't afford the time OR money to go cross country for breeder rats.


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## RatAtat2693

The guide will be revised after everyone has posted.

Due to technical limitations, it will not be getting it's own forum, but we'll see if it can have a designated area. Most likely I'll divide it up into individual posts with added information in a Google doc.

Once it is posted, the topic will most likely be locked. No comments will be allowed in the guide topic. It's essentially a book, not a discussion.

I don't know how long this will take, but seeing as it's being written for free by people in their off time, it might be a while, and I hope people can keep that in mind.

Lastly, we are all adults. And if you're not a legal adult, pretend to be one. This is, with an exception to product reviews, and objective piece of literature that requires you to remove as much bias as possible. I do not want to have to edit any pieces beyond spelling and grammar, but if your piece suggestions condescension towards another person's viewpoint, I will notify you of the issue and give you a chance to remove it. If you fail to do so, I will remove it myself.


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## catty-ratty

Social requirements for rats.

Need to be in groups.
Need time out of the cage.
Need variety to prevent depression, boredom and aggressive behavior.
Puzzles. 

Suggestions and examples would be good


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## RatAtat2693

InuLing said:


> I've had rescues and pet store rats. Never had breeder rats simply because there are either no decent breeders here in NC or they've all gone into hiding. I work every day. I can't afford the time OR money to go cross country for breeder rats.


They've either retired, or in the case of my former breeder, contracted a lethal rat allergy.


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## catty-ratty

Also, a thread with questions for people thinking about getting a rat.

An example would be how often are you at home. Do you travel a lot. These people probably should not have rats.


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## RatAtat2693

catty-ratty said:


> Also, a thread with questions for people thinking about getting a rat.
> 
> An example would be how often are you at home. Do you travel a lot. These people probably should not have rats.


By travel, what do you mean? Because I travel, as in move, a lot. I live a semi-nomadic lifestyle, so I've moved houses four times since last July. None of my personal rats have any issues with it. ****, we've been camping together.

There's a thread: moving with rats

Or Camping with Your Rats


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## catty-ratty

RatAtat2693 said:


> By travel, what do you mean?


I'm talking about people who go out of town a lot. People who travel for work, or go out of town over night or longer often. When I was in college, I had roommates that went out of town frequently. Some students are required to study abroad for a semester. My husband has to go out of town every couple of months and is gone for a week at a time. 

When I was in college, especially in upper division courses, I HAD to stay on campus a lot to do work in studios. It wasn't practical to bring my work home. So I wasn't home much of the time. 

Another sad thing with students is that they are bad about adopting a pet and then getting rid of it when they go home for the summer.

Stuff like that.


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## Kelsbels

Ah travel is a good subject. Especially during the holidays, because people will travel by all sorts of vehicles. Long trips versus shorts trips.

Suggested carriers.

Traveling with your rat on a train and/or bus should be touched upon.

Traveling in car or plane, from folks who have done it before. 

Sometimes people have asked what to do if they're moving to another country with their rats (via plane) and if it's okay to bring them.

If someone has a lot of knowledge about that, it would be a great section.


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## catty-ratty

I would think traveling with your rats would be more difficult in the states. When I flew my cats to Hawaii, they had to go with everyones luggage. Rat's aren't very well accepted as pets here, so a train or bus might be difficult. I know that in Germany and some other European countries, pets have a much higher status than here. 

Personally, if I were going to travel with my rats, I'd drive with a cage set up in the car.


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## JAnimal

catty-ratty said:


> *Cage Attribute Musts!!!*
> 
> Bar spacing be no more than 1/2"




Some adult rats and most adult males can get by with 3/4" or even 1"


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## catty-ratty

JAnimal said:


> [/LIST]
> Some adult rats and most adult males can get by with 3/4" or even 1"


Got it. Thanks


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## RatAtat2693

catty-ratty said:


> I would think traveling with your rats would be more difficult in the states. When I flew my cats to Hawaii, they had to go with everyones luggage. Rat's aren't very well accepted as pets here, so a train or bus might be difficult. I know that in Germany and some other European countries, pets have a much higher status than here.
> 
> Personally, if I were going to travel with my rats, I'd drive with a cage set up in the car.


I'm too broke to fly. We have a strategic set up in my Outback for road trips. I'm pretty sure rats aren't allowed on planes. I know for a fact, however, that you can't take them on buses and trains.


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## InuLing

Interesting. I've always driven with my rats. I have 3 car cages depending on how many and what ages my rats coming with me, and then a travel cage at my destination. It's usually a bit smaller since you can't really travel with a DCN, but they get extra daily playtime instead. I treat traveling like extra bonding time for me and my babies. Hope grandma doesn't mind lol.


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## RatAtat2693

Mine just chill out in the cat carrier. When I travel with pets, it's usually a move. So the reliable rats get free time in my trunk while the dogs and cat get their walk. I use the Rat Manor as a travel cage.


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## MudBug

I believe there was an article somewhere with a step-by-step on how to prepare fleece to be used as bedding (so that it wicks properly) as well as cleaning and whatnot. Also, I'm sure any walktrhroughs/tutorials on cage building would be amazing. I'm building one myself this weekend, so if all goes well we'll have that.

Don't forget to include a link to the list of rat friendly vets by state, and I don't know if these exist yet, but lists of breeders/rescues/groups/etc by location would be awesome. I'm in Louisiana a myself and wow rat people are hard to find down here, finally lucked out with a couple of Facebook groups! Haha

Um, anything explaining markings, coat types, ear types, colors obviously. That's very basic, but I know I had no idea there was so much variety.

I'll try and think of the first questions I had..Oh, "boys vs girls" would be very helpful. I know it's not a real "versus" type situation, but just something explaining the differences would be good. Maybe even toss in new illustrated guide to gendering.

For people who didn't impulse buy (like myself.. shame) maybe a guide to owning a baby rat? What to feed, what developments to watch for, how old is safe/ok to wean (so they can be weary of someone letting rats go too young), at what age boys/girls should be seperated.

Um.. anything involving pregnancy. I see that asked a lot. How to spot it, how to handle it. I know there's already a thread on it, so that's a little leg work saved there.

Oh, as for ailments, be sure to include/outline anything that is transmittable between species, such as cat to rat or what have you. I don't know if there are many or even any at all, but just a thought.

I apologize if any of these things have been said. I'm on my phone so can't recheck over the thread well. I'll try to think of more questions as I have them.. being a rat Newby myself.


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## RatAtat2693

No worries. Better twice than none at all.


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## Kelsbels

catty-ratty said:


> I would think traveling with your rats would be more difficult in the states. When I flew my cats to Hawaii, they had to go with everyones luggage. Rat's aren't very well accepted as pets here, so a train or bus might be difficult. I know that in Germany and some other European countries, pets have a much higher status than here.
> 
> Personally, if I were going to travel with my rats, I'd drive with a cage set up in the car.


Sorry, I don't know what you mean about pets having a higher status in Europe? 

In Germany, depending on the size of your animal, a dog for this instance, you have to pay for their ticket and pay a dog tax. Weird right? With small animals you can travel with them in a small carrier on a bus or train, but really the only times you'd do this is if you're taking them to the vet, picking them up, or need to travel during the holidays. 

If I had a car here it wouldn't be much of a question for me how to travel with them. However rats can be difficult traveling via public transport. You have dogs, prying eyes, and weather to deal with. Rats are not popular pets here either, when shopping for them in the store or online there's not a lot of options. Actually lemmings and degus seem to be more popular O_O.

Some after thoughts:
I guess in terms of all animals (even horses) can take the trains, in some instances there is a higher status. Though It seems like Germany just has a very strong public transport service as opposed to when I lived in a big city in Ohio.


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## catty-ratty

Kelsbels said:


> Sorry, I don't know what you mean about pets having a higher status in Europe?


Part of my old job was standing in front of retail establishments raising funds and supplies for local animal shelters and rescues. Living near the largest military installation in the world, there are a great many people from around the world. Of all the foreigners I talked to that wanted to help the animals, most of them were German. They told me a lot things about how animals are regarded in Europe, but especially in Germany. 

From what they told me, Germany not only has laws to protect animals, they are actually enforced. An American stationed there 'disposed of' a litter of puppies in a cruel way. He was prosecuted and served jail time. Animals are allowed in restaurants, as long as they are behaved. Every German I talked to was absolutely appalled at the way animals are treated here in the states and told me how much better it is for animals in Germany. 

After hearing the same stories over and over again for the 3 1/2 years I worked at that job, I can't help but believe it's true.


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## RatAtat2693

I want to know where you worked because that's not what I heard at all. Of course, when it's through the grapevine, you never know.


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## Kelsbels

I can't say I know the laws here, since I've only lived here for a little while, but it doesn't seem that much of an improvement. I live in Berlin, so there's a ton of dogs here, and yes lots of folks bring their dogs into restaurants and it's pretty relaxed. Most of these restaurants are privately owned so it varies place to place who allows what. I also know a lot of vegans here too so maybe there's a stronger desire for animal rights? 

Anyways I don't want to go off topic. 

*Mudbug* did you mean this tutorial? https://www.guineapigcages.com/forum/threads/21568-The-Fleece-Project-The-Study

Would any helpful youtube video links be accepted?


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## RatAtat2693

Yup


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## Rat Daddy

If you feel it might be helpful to new rat owners, you could add a link to the immersion guide. 

I'd almost suggest a link to my shoulder rat thread too, but that is really only for advanced rat trainers and handlers. For new rat owners, it's more of a things-not-to-do checklist, so it might be best left out or at least not linked.


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## RatAtat2693

I know where the Immersion Guide is, but where is the shoulder rat link? If the beginners guide comes together nicely, there might be a part two: tricks and enrichment.

Mobile is a pain in the a** to search on.


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## RatAtat2693

Oh, and if you're participating, I was considering creating a Google Doc for everything to be organized into, so Pm me with a Google email to add you with. They're easy and free to make.


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## Rat Daddy

http://www.ratforum.com/showthread.php?51718-Shoulder-Rats-and-all-out-of-home-rat-activities


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## MudBug

*Kelsbels*
Yes, that's the one!


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## Kelsbels

I know it isn't common that someone from the USA (or english speaking country) to live in Germany and has / wants rats, but I always believe that there's someone out the that might at some point. I took a lot of notes and research of what you can get here, what's common place, and website resources. I also know some search words in German. It might be useful to someone out there. *shrugs*


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## catty-ratty

RatAtat2693 said:


> Oh, and if you're participating, I was considering creating a Google Doc for everything to be organized into, so Pm me with a Google email to add you with. They're easy and free to make.


Do you want everyone's email? I'm working on a draft for habitat right now.


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## catty-ratty

Kelsbels said:


> I know it isn't common that someone from the USA (or english speaking country) to live in Germany and has / wants rats, but I always believe that there's someone out the that might at some point. I took a lot of notes and research of what you can get here, what's common place, and website resources. I also know some search words in German. It might be useful to someone out there. *shrugs*


I personally think it would be good thing to include. There are plenty of Europeans on this website. There is also information in the stickies specific to Europe.


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## Rat Daddy

It's been a few decades since I was last in Germany, But I do recall the people on my Lufthansa flight sitting by the emergency door with their dog at their feet... And yes the dog flew in the cabin with them... I asked and they told me that the dog had been tranquilized to keep it calm... But I also recall the cockpit door was open and the flight crew was giving tours to kids while drinking cocktails. So some things might have changed...

But in Germany, as I recall there was an obscene dog tax. You had to be a pretty hard core dog lover with financial resources to own a dog. I think the high cost of ownership made people take better care of their dogs and better train them... Most of the dogs I saw in the city were exceptionally well behaved and yes they were treated with a lot more respect than in the US. Simply put, German dog owners were expected to be more responsible and their dogs got more respect for it. 

Seriously, people who don't have the time or aren't willing to put in the effort to properly train their dogs, most likely shouldn't own them in the first place.


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## catty-ratty

MudBug said:


> I believe there was an article somewhere with a step-by-step on how to prepare fleece to be used as bedding (so that it wicks properly) as well as cleaning and whatnot.


I've already got this in my notes 

In my experience, IF your rats are not chewers and IF they are litter box trained and finally IF the fleece is well secured using fleece is great. I prefer it to wood or paper substrate. Use the 'hook' side sticky back Velcro on the bottom of the shelf. It holds the fleece pretty good. As long as there is no loose fleece, my rats won't pull it up, chew on it, or burrow under it. I also use puppy training pads under 2 layers of fleece. I haven't had ANY problems with odors as long as the litter box is changed out ever day.







https://www.guineapigcages.com/forum...ject-The-Study


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## catty-ratty

Rat Daddy said:


> Seriously, people who don't have the time or aren't willing to put in the effort to properly train their dogs, most likely shouldn't own them in the first place.


Ditto.

One day when I was still working with animal shelters and rescues, I was in front of Spec's liquor store. I know it seems odd! 

One guy I talked, who didn't want to help, had just walked out of with a huge bottle of Crown Royal. He told me he wanted to get rid of his dog because it it wouldn't stay in his _unfenced yard. _He lived in the neighboring county, so the one I was representing couldn't take his dog. I suggested getting one of those buried wires with a collar that would give the dog a mild shock to keep him in. 

This man, who just spent a butt load of money on liquor and drove a big, shiny new truck told me he couldn't afford a fence. 

He told me that if my shelter would not take his dog, he was just going to dump it out for the coyotes to take care his problem. 

It was SO gratifying to look him straight in the eye, with obvious scorn and tell him he should NEVER have ANY pets.


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## Kelsbels

Rat Daddy said:


> It's been a few decades since I was last in Germany, But I do recall the people on my Lufthansa flight sitting by the emergency door with their dog at their feet... And yes the dog flew in the cabin with them... I asked and they told me that the dog had been tranquilized to keep it calm... But I also recall the cockpit door was open and the flight crew was giving tours to kids while drinking cocktails. So some things might have changed...
> 
> But in Germany, as I recall there was an obscene dog tax. You had to be a pretty hard core dog lover with financial resources to own a dog. I think the high cost of ownership made people take better care of their dogs and better train them... Most of the dogs I saw in the city were exceptionally well behaved and yes they were treated with a lot more respect than in the US. Simply put, German dog owners were expected to be more responsible and their dogs got more respect for it.
> 
> Seriously, people who don't have the time or aren't willing to put in the effort to properly train their dogs, most likely shouldn't own them in the first place.


The dog tax here is for large dogs, which I still think is ridiculous. I don't know at what size dogs here are considered large. In Berlin at least you'll see that a lot of dogs are off leash and follow commands extremely well. There's even a blog called "Dogs waiting in Berlin" that showcases how obedient they are. I think this is more out of necessity living in a big city than anything else. Personally I still feel that people should be more courteous and keep them on a leash around small children, in restaurants or other animals. However most of the time the dogs and owners here seem to work really well together with commands and crossing the road, it's quite a sight to see. 

And from time to time you'll see the occasional shoulder rat! A friend of mine told me he met a guy carrying around his rat the other day.


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## Rat Daddy

Germans tend to do things better. It's more in the culture to pick one something and do it really well. Americans tend to be more novelty driven and take on more activities or interests which in turn they don't do as well. I know that's a generalization... some people are actually very good at doing several things at a time... but if you only have one pet and limit your other interests, you are more likely to train it better. 

And shoulder rats do take a lot of time to train and test and work with... It's something you are more likely to do if your interests are limited to training rats and you aren't distracted by 20 other hobbies.


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## RatAtat2693

@Catty - yes, everyone



Rat Daddy said:


> ...And shoulder rats do take a lot of time to train and test and work with... It's something you are more likely to do if your interests are limited to training rats and you aren't distracted by 20 other hobbies.


The only way around this is if you do like I did and start early on a different thing. Though I'm not sure I could say I did anything particularly different since it was dog training. And if you've mastered training one species, you've easily laid the foundation for everything else.


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## MudBug

I think it'd be super fantastic to have a guide of some kind on dominance behavior and healthy hierarchy establishment. I just got several new rats and had to have a couple of panic attacks because I had no idea the difference between normal Squabbles and all out brawls.I was also unaware that they always periodically do it. I was under the impression that once introductions were over they'd be best friends for life. So that threw me off.I'm not asking any questions, just illustrating what I had to recently learn as a newby. So that, I'm sure, would be very useful to most anyone who starts out with several rats.


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## InuLing

MudBug said:


> I think it'd be super fantastic to have a guide of some kind on dominance behavior and healthy hierarchy establishment. I just got several new rats and had to have a couple of panic attacks because I had no idea the difference between normal Squabbles and all out brawls.I was also unaware that they always periodically do it. I was under the impression that once introductions were over they'd be best friends for life. So that threw me off.I'm not asking any questions, just illustrating what I had to recently learn as a newby. So that, I'm sure, would be very useful to most anyone who starts out with several rats.


Yes and I think videos should be included in that section because you can only describe it so much. That's the kind of thing that needs to be seen.


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## Rat Daddy

The main difference between training dogs and rats is that dogs almost always take you seriously and listen once they know their commands.... Rats sometimes think you are kidding or there's something more important that they should be doing... or sooner or later, when you train rats long enough... they just look at you like you have lost your mind when you tell them to do something... 

Actually rats do read your body language and tone of voice to decide whether your command is important or not, so some rats are really great outdoors but don't pay you much mind indoors when your commands really aren't life or death....

Outdoors our rats tend to follow commands pretty well... indoors they are merely suggestions and when they disagree, apparently I have my share of bad suggestions.


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## catty-ratty

Rat Daddy said:


> Actually rats do read your .......tone of voice to decide whether your command is important or not....


I can say in my own experience that this is absolutely true. Anga can definitely tell by the tone of my voice that what I'm telling her is imperative. Like a dog, she does NOT want me to be unhappy with her. When she knows it's imperative, she runs straight to me. If it's not so imperative, she ignores me!


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## RatAtat2693

MudBug said:


> I think it'd be super fantastic to have a guide of some kind on dominance behavior and healthy hierarchy establishment. I just got several new rats and had to have a couple of panic attacks because I had no idea the difference between normal Squabbles and all out brawls.I was also unaware that they always periodically do it. I was under the impression that once introductions were over they'd be best friends for life. So that threw me off.I'm not asking any questions, just illustrating what I had to recently learn as a newby. So that, I'm sure, would be very useful to most anyone who starts out with several rats.


The squabbles could be filmed since they're harmless, but the death matches would have to be of wild rats or something because if there's a death match going on, I'm probably in it to break it up.


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## RatAtat2693

http://www.ratforum.com/showthread.php?315498-How-to-quot-rat-proof-quot-a-room


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## InuLing

It would be great if someone had the foresight to mount a camera that shows the whole introduction area so they have hands-free recording of everything that happens. That way if brawls do happen they can be recorded AND broken up lol. I'd do it but 1. My camera is my phone and can't take long videos and 2. My rats are too sweet! Besides a little bit of pinning and power grooming they never have any problems. With a few introductions I was able to skip the carrier part entirely!


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## catty-ratty

InuLing said:


> It would be great if someone had the foresight to mount a camera that shows the whole introduction area so they have hands-free recording of everything that happens. That way if brawls do happen they can be recorded AND broken up lol. I'd do it but 1. My camera is my phone and can't take long videos and 2. My rats are too sweet! Besides a little bit of pinning and power grooming they never have any problems. With a few introductions I was able to skip the carrier part entirely!


I saw a video on YouTube of introductions gone wrong. I'll look it up and ask permission to put a link to it.


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## RatAtat2693

Yeah - someone else might need to handle the intros. My method is "Toss everyone in a bathroom and toss a towel on them if they scuffle." Never had any real problems out of the 20+ rats I've introduced. The only fight/injury I ever had was in a carrier, so we can all see why I don't use that anymore.


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## rottengirl

Would you guys consider the idea of putting together a post in here for beginners to learn how to teach their rats tricks? And like an amalgamation of all the tricks you guys know that can be taught, maybe divided into easy (name, come, up/down) to the more complex ones? Just thinking out loud  I like this idea btw.


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## catty-ratty

This is the example video I was talking about on YouTube as an example of aggressive behavior when rats do not get along.
I messaged her to ask permission to use it in the guide!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYGGKsixti0


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## RatAtat2693

rottengirl said:


> Would you guys consider the idea of putting together a post in here for beginners to learn how to teach their rats tricks? And like an amalgamation of all the tricks you guys know that can be taught, maybe divided into easy (name, come, up/down) to the more complex ones? Just thinking out loud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like this idea btw.


I'm pretty sure there's a YouTube channel devoted to rat agility that we can link up. I'll look for it later when I have a real Internet connection.


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## catty-ratty

*Habitat Guide Final Draft, with preserved formatting!!*

*Habitat*


*Cage Attribute Musts!!!*
Bar spacing be no more than 1/2"
Some adults and male rats can be housed with bars up to 3/4" or even up to 1" spacing
Bars should be horizontal because rats need climbing space
Minimum of 2.5 square feet per rat
Cage size calculators
http://www.ratcentral.com/rat-cage-calculator/
http://ratcagecalculator.com/
http://www.ratzrus.co.uk/ratguides/r...calculator.php

Avoid mesh grates and bars on levels where rats will be walking, including ramps, it's hard on their feet and can lead bumble foot
Must be well ventilated due to URI sensitivities
Aquariums are highly discouraged due to poor ventilation!!
Avoid cages with plastic bottoms, some rats will chew them to escape the cage

 


*Helpful Cage Attributes*
Doors that are large enough for YOU to have easy access to the cage.
Makes for easier cleaning
Arranging items in the cage, hammocks, toys, hide huts, hammocks etc.
Litter box training

Raised edges to keep litter and poops inside the cage

 


*Cage Accessories*
Lots of Hammocks
Toys and puzzles
Hide huts and other places to hide
Lava ledges or natural pumice
Wheels
Only use toe and tail safe wheels
Safe wheels have a smooth surface with traction for paws

Wheels should be at least 12"


 



*Feeding Supplies*
Heavy bowls or bowls that are hard to turn over
More than one is a good idea for supplementing block food with fresh fruit and vegetables
Water bottles
It's a good idea to provide more than one. Water bottles can leak and malfunction
Most people don't use bowls for water because raisins tend to end up in the bowl, they get turned over and /or rats may try to hide the water with absorbent materials in the cage


 
*Cleaning the cage*


Should be cleaned weekly
A deep cleaning should be performed monthly
Safe cleaners
Vinegar
Dish soap
Peroxide, good for neutralizing ammonia

 


*Substrate*
*Things to Avoid*
Cedar and Pine Shavings
Should be dust free

 


*Fleece*
Should be 100% polyester to wick urine down
Absorbent layer should be placed under fleece soak to up urine
_Fleece Pros_
No litter to get tossed out of the cage
Easier to clean floors of cage
I personally think it's easier on the feet
More fun to decorate the cage
Relatively inexpensive
Can be reused


_Cons_
Not always easy to secure it well to the floors and shelves
Some rats will pull it up, chew on it and burrow under it, especially if it's not well secured
If your rats sleep under fleece with urine build up, it can be toxic to your rats
Little to no odor control if not used properly
Takes more time to set up
Best for litter box trained rats

_Notes_
Attaching the 'hook' side of Velcro to the bottom side of shelves helps keep fleece in place and seems to discourage chewing and burrowing
Probably best used in large cages
Use a scent free laundry detergent, 'free and clear'
Using fabric softener will decrease wicking ability of fleece
Scent free puppy training pads can be used_ IF your rats are not chewers_
Peroxide added to laundry detergent to clean fleece will neutralize ammonia

For more details on the proper use and recommendations for fleece
https://www.guineapigcages.com/forum...ject-The-Study

 


*Shredded Paper*
_Pros_
No worries about chewing it up
Rats can burrow in it, removing the need for dig boxes
Easy to clean, just dump and replace.
Low maintenance and easy to set up

_Cons_
Can be messy
Can be difficult to find dust free
Even with higher edges on the shelf, it can end up outside of the cage
Can be more difficult to litter box train
Not reusable

_Notes_
ONLY USE UNSCENTED
MUST BE DUST FREE


*Wood Shavings*
_Pros_
No worries about chewing it up
Superior odor control for rats that are not litter box trained
Rats can burrow in it, removing the need for dig boxes
Easy to clean, just dump and replace.
Low maintenance and easy to set up
Inexpensive

_Cons_
Can be messy
Can be difficult to find dust free
Even with higher edges on the shelf, it can end up outside of the cage
Can be more difficult to litter box train

_Notes _
Most people agree that aspen is the best choice of wood
DO NOT USE CEDAR OR PINE SHAVINGS
The use of kiln dried pine is debatable


 


*Hemp*( available in the UK)
_Pros_
The substrate does not smell
 Good at absorbing odors
 Not dusty
 Soft
 Easy to throw out or use in compost
Safe for rats to use

_Cons_
This stuff tends to be full of static, not like you or your rats would get shocked, but when you're cleaning it can fly everywhere
It gets everywhere unfortunately, rats kick it out of the cage, and if you use fleece for their baskets it'll end up in your laundry.



For more information on cages and recommendations, see the sticky 'Choosing a Good Cage For Your Rats'
http://www.ratforum.com/showthread.p...our-Rats-GUIDE







*Habitat*


*Cage Attribute Musts!!!*
Bar spacing be no more than 1/2"
Some adults and male rats can be housed with bars up to 3/4" or even up to 1" spacing
Bars should be horizontal because rats need climbing space
Minimum of 2.5 square feet per rat
Cage size calculators
http://www.ratcentral.com/rat-cage-calculator/
http://ratcagecalculator.com/
http://www.ratzrus.co.uk/ratguides/r...calculator.php

Avoid mesh grates and bars on levels where rats will be walking, including ramps, it's hard on their feet and can lead bumble foot
Must be well ventilated due to URI sensitivities
Aquariums are highly discouraged due to poor ventilation!!
Avoid cages with plastic bottoms, some rats will chew them to escape the cage

 


*Helpful Cage Attributes*
Doors that are large enough for YOU to have easy access to the cage.
Makes for easier cleaning
Arranging items in the cage, hammocks, toys, hide huts, hammocks etc.
Litter box training

Raised edges to keep litter and poops inside the cage

 


*Cage Accessories*
Lots of Hammocks
Toys and puzzles
Hide huts and other places to hide
Lava ledges or natural pumice
Wheels
Only use toe and tail safe wheels
Safe wheels have a smooth surface with traction for paws

Wheels should be at least 12"


 



*Feeding Supplies*
Heavy bowls or bowls that are hard to turn over
More than one is a good idea for supplementing block food with fresh fruit and vegetables
Water bottles
It's a good idea to provide more than one. Water bottles can leak and malfunction
Most people don't use bowls for water because raisins tend to end up in the bowl, they get turned over and /or rats may try to hide the water with absorbent materials in the cage


 
*Cleaning the cage*


Should be cleaned weekly
A deep cleaning should be performed monthly
Safe cleaners
Vinegar
Dish soap
Peroxide, good for neutralizing ammonia

 


*Substrate*
*Things to Avoid*
Cedar and Pine Shavings
Should be dust free

 


*Fleece*
Should be 100% polyester to wick urine down
Absorbent layer should be placed under fleece soak to up urine
_Fleece Pros_
No litter to get tossed out of the cage
Easier to clean floors of cage
I personally think it's easier on the feet
More fun to decorate the cage
Relatively inexpensive
Can be reused


_Cons_
Not always easy to secure it well to the floors and shelves
Some rats will pull it up, chew on it and burrow under it, especially if it's not well secured
If your rats sleep under fleece with urine build up, it can be toxic to your rats
Little to no odor control if not used properly
Takes more time to set up
Best for litter box trained rats

_Notes_
Attaching the 'hook' side of Velcro to the bottom side of shelves helps keep fleece in place and seems to discourage chewing and burrowing
Probably best used in large cages
Use a scent free laundry detergent, 'free and clear'
Using fabric softener will decrease wicking ability of fleece
Scent free puppy training pads can be used_ IF your rats are not chewers_
Peroxide added to laundry detergent to clean fleece will neutralize ammonia

For more details on the proper use and recommendations for fleece
https://www.guineapigcages.com/forum...ject-The-Study

 


*Shredded Paper*
_Pros_
No worries about chewing it up
Rats can burrow in it, removing the need for dig boxes
Easy to clean, just dump and replace.
Low maintenance and easy to set up

_Cons_
Can be messy
Can be difficult to find dust free
Even with higher edges on the shelf, it can end up outside of the cage
Can be more difficult to litter box train
Not reusable

_Notes_
ONLY USE UNSCENTED
MUST BE DUST FREE


*Wood Shavings*
_Pros_
No worries about chewing it up
Superior odor control for rats that are not litter box trained
Rats can burrow in it, removing the need for dig boxes
Easy to clean, just dump and replace.
Low maintenance and easy to set up
Inexpensive

_Cons_
Can be messy
Can be difficult to find dust free
Even with higher edges on the shelf, it can end up outside of the cage
Can be more difficult to litter box train

_Notes _
Most people agree that aspen is the best choice of wood
DO NOT USE CEDAR OR PINE SHAVINGS
The use of kiln dried pine is debatable


 


*Hemp*( available in the UK)
_Pros_
The substrate does not smell
 Good at absorbing odors
 Not dusty
 Soft
 Easy to throw out or use in compost
Safe for rats to use

_Cons_
This stuff tends to be full of static, not like you or your rats would get shocked, but when you're cleaning it can fly everywhere
It gets everywhere unfortunately, rats kick it out of the cage, and if you use fleece for their baskets it'll end up in your laundry.



For more information on cages and recommendations, see the sticky 'Choosing a Good Cage For Your Rats'
http://www.ratforum.com/showthread.p...our-Rats-GUIDE


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## catty-ratty

Oh....It looks like the guide got pasted twice. Sorry

I heard back from RatGirl44 and she said we can use her video.

When rats do not get along... - YouTube


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## RatAtat2693

Cool. Thanks for typing this up.


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## Kelsbels

Hey Catty-Ratty, for the Hemp could you also say that it's available in Germany? Thanks!


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## rottengirl

RatAtat2693 said:


> I'm pretty sure there's a YouTube channel devoted to rat agility that we can link up. I'll look for it later when I have a real Internet connection.


Oh wow, thank you. If you wouldn't mind that would be great, a good reference for me.


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## InuLing

Just thought of something else we should put in it. We should include places to get resources like revolution and doxy without prescriptions. Speaking of that I need some cat revolution. Where can I get it?


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## moonkissed

InuLing said:


> Just thought of something else we should put in it. We should include places to get resources like revolution and doxy without prescriptions. Speaking of that I need some cat revolution. Where can I get it?


Best site IMO no prescription http://www.canadavet.com/revolution-C90.aspx


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## RatAtat2693

Camping with rats. 

http://www.ratforum.com/#/forumsite/20603/topics/316322?page=1


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## Tiwohunter

The only vet that will service rats for medical needs is The Cat and Bird Clinc : http://m.mobilewebsiteserver.com/site/catandbirdclinic#2685

It took me quite a while to find a vet when I got my first rat so having this info available would have been a major headache saver. Many vets list small animals but do not see rats, and to boot all the vets recommended by pet shops did not see rats. Just plain frustrating. 

I learned how to medicate my rats by reading and researching the book Rat Health Care by Debbie Ducommun. A website that I find very useful is Ratguide.com - this is just a flat great place that covers health, behavior and general care information.

Um, last thing I can think of as a newbie helper is to check out shops/sections for other animals, particularly birds. The twisty rope perches make great catwalks. The clamp on bowls for birds make great tip proof food bowls. Hanging coconut houses are a favorite and for under $8 a major steal. Also a lot of the foraging toys are Rat friendly or easily modified.


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## RatAtat2693

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=27006


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## RatAtat2693

If anyone wants to contribute: here's the link to the doc

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1U3Ga5DpzwQXPJTmn7Q4X7quHIuEAGJV5_ELoc6efQJg/edit?usp=sharing

No signin required. Leave your screen name in the comment tab.


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## RatAtat2693

Quick intro for my notes
http://www.ratforum.com/showthread.php?317154-What-do-i-need-for-my-new-rats-!

Rat Agility
http://www.theagilerat.com


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## catty-ratty

So...there hasn't been a lot of activity here for a while. I've looked over it again and I have some thoughts. 

Everything people have suggested are great things to know. But I think some of them are beyond what a new rat owner needs when they are first getting started. And since this is all going to be in a single sticky, it could possibly get very long. As a new person, I wanted something with all the_ most pertinent_ things to know in one place and easy to read. For me personally, that would be in outline form. The most critical to know could easily get buried in all the information that IMO should be posted separately. Agility training, how to sew a hammocks and traveling with rats are great things to know about, but it's more important to know you should never keep a rat in a closed off space with no ventilation, kept on pine or cedar shavings and that they really need to be in groups.

I personally think an outline for a beginners guide should be limited to 

Would a rat be a good pet for me?
Social requirements
Habitat
What to feed
Common medical issues and treatment


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## catty-ratty

I also think it would be good for new rat owneres to get their first rats from the same place. A new owner shouldn't have to worry about introducing new rats and the possible issues with them not getting along.


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## DragonGate

Hmm, yes, I can definitely see that as a very good recommendation. I got my bucks from the same tank, thinking they were already used to living together and they get along fine. I haven't yet tried to introduce new rats, their Rat Manor isn't big enough for more than two comfortably.


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## Veileddreamer

About travels with rats -- American Airlines apparently allows rats on planes. It doesn't say so on the Internet, but when I was investigating methods for getting my girls to NH with me from NC, I called and asked and they said it was fine. Their official pet policy is here. He seemed to think 4 would be fine, but 2 is definitely fine in one travel kennel / cage. It's also $125 per kennel, each way, and they must have a signed vet slip saying they are healthy and can fly.


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## RatAtat2693

Hiccuping and Rats:
http://www.ratforum.com/showthread.php?320122-hiccuping-once-a-day


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## Riksor

I'm a newbie and It'd be really nice if in the guide there was a section on rat behavior. When my rats fight I always get scared for their safety, even though it seems to be simple play or dominance fighting. I wish I would've known more about that sorta stuff sooner. >>


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## RatAtat2693

Riksor said:


> I'm a newbie and It'd be really nice if in the guide there was a section on rat behavior. When my rats fight I always get scared for their safety, even though it seems to be simple play or dominance fighting. I wish I would've known more about that sorta stuff sooner. >>


We'll be sure to include it. But until I get this thing pulled together, the basic rule of thumb is no blood, no bruises. They're usually okay. (I'm working full-time now, so I don't have the luxury of spending 45 hours a week here...)


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## mewmew_chan

I always tell people to watch a series of videos on Youtube called Rattiepedia by The Rat Guru. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLemoiETlH_TfeEhC0ON1NI4cplDsXsKwy It's a really good series.


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## ReichertCaleb

RatAtat2693 said:


> Hey guys, so a couple of you may have seen in the Lounge that we're starting a Beginner's Guide to rat ownership, an FAQ, if you will, and we need _you_ to help get this ball rolling.
> 
> So, what can you do? Well...
> If you yourself are a beginner, *give us your questions.* Some of us have been doing this too long, so remembering that some people have never held a rat (properly) before is where we become relatively stupid.
> 
> If you have experience, *share it.* You don't need to be an expert to write a cage review or hook us up with some awesome links. What's your favorite site for cage covers? Where did you learn how to dose Baytril? Is sewing hammocks easy?
> 
> How many yogies could a rat yogie if a rat could make it's own yogies?! The world may never know without _you._
> 
> The point of this is that, as some of you may notice, our forum is _full of information_. But it's scattered everywhere. If we could centralize some of our core links, I think it would be much easier for those of us who are new to these fluff balls we call friends - uh, I mean rats.
> 
> Without further adieu, I'll start.
> 
> One of my all time favorite guides for sewing hammocks is:
> http://www.ratropolis.com/Rat Tutorials/RatTutorials.htm
> Just download the free sheet and there's about a million different patterns.
> 
> Also, post some categories for this. We also composing a master supplies list of e-v-erything you'll ever need for rat ownership, from Oxbow to toenail clippers and zip ties. So, if you feel like taking an inventory of your supplies (which I found myself doing while moving), post them here as well.
> 
> Thanks a ton, and I know there are so many n00bs 😉 out there who are thanking you as well.


Unlike Hamster, Rat knows how to perform a number of trained movements such as taking objects, climbing to circus ...


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## Rrtuma

catty-ratty said:


> Social requirements for rats.
> 
> Need to be in groups.
> Need time out of the cage.
> Need variety to prevent depression, boredom and aggressive behavior.
> Puzzles.
> 
> Suggestions and examples would be good


Question!! I bought a play pen for my rats, one made for guinea pigs but with small bars 
My rats are new and timid, not comfortable enough to let me pick them up yet. I have also tried placing the cage into the play pen and leaving the door open so they can choose to come out when they want but that has only worked once so far. Any suggestions on how to make my rats more comfortable with me AND the play pen? I would love for them to get more comfortable so I can spend more time with them and start teaching them tricks too.


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## bitteghkjjnn

If you yourself are a beginner, *give us your questions.* Some of us have been doing this too long, so remembering that some people have never held a rat (properly) before is where we become relatively stupid.


----------

