# How early can rats learn litter training?



## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

I have some new rats that are probably no more than a few months old. I've started litter training them, but should I expect to see results before they are anywhere close to full size?


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## lilangel (Mar 26, 2009)

Depends on them really. Some learn it easy while others take time  To help them along too you can pick up the poop around the cage they leave and place it in the litter box too to show them that is what to do  If your not doing that yet.


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

I think the big rat is "unlearning" his litter training by being around the little ones. 

I try to put as much of the poop into the tray as I can, but with shredded paper as my bedding, its hard to find them all, especially when the little ones are the size of a grain of rice.


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## Brian (Jul 25, 2010)

yeah my rats i just got on august 8th are only 7 weeks now(had them 5 days) are using their litter box...not all the time but pretty much. they miss a few times, and it ends up right beside it but just keep up the work any theyll get it


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## Brian (Jul 25, 2010)

also put the water bottle food bowl theyre bed and maybe something else to go in any extra corners, they wont crap where the water is or food or house and then they will go in the box, but make sure its where they usually "go"


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

Great idea. I've been putting the water bottle above the litter tray to catch drops that might cause moisture.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

I've had three week old babies litter trained. I find using a dust extracted all natural unscented clay cat litter makes the rats litter train themselves. heh.


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

My big rat litter trained himself poop and pee really fast. I used paper bedding elsewhere and these pellet things in his litter box. The babies on the other hand are still pooping and peeing everywhere, even where they sleep and in the bowls. 

How do you use cat litter in yours?


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

Not all cat litter is suitable, its usually more expensive for the dust extracted stuff. But I found my ratties do better off it (A few were sensitive to carefresh ultra, its so dusty here), and they pee there mostly too. Its like how dogs prefer to pee on grass...


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

I'll keep trying but I'm afraid I'll have to contact the shelter I got em from if I don't make any progress by the time school starts. Even my big rat is starting to smell of urine, and I don't want to force another bath on him.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

Some rats just won't litter train. I've never personally came across one, but I've heard of a few. I don't think it warrants taking them back to the shelter tho, rats will naturally pee and mark their scent in places. You can add sterile rocks to their litter boxes, which might help encourage them to pee there more. 

If you have more than three rats, you really need to be at least spot cleaning every day to keep the smell down. I know litter training really helps that, but it doesn't take longer than a few minutes to pick up any stray poops. You could even remove the rats and vacuum (using secured fleece as bedding) I keep disinfectant wipes handy to wipe down the levels each morning. (I find they make most of their mess at night time, silly ratties!)


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

Well, originally I was hoping to get a single additional rat for my lone rat. The person who runs the rescue said she has an adult loner and a pair of young twins. I thought I was going to be able to see both the loner and the twins, but she only brought the twins to our meeting place. Our rats didn't fight, and she had this nice big "spare" cage for free, so I didnt want to say no at the time. I've been in contact, and she says that we can try introducing the adult rat if 3 is too much to handle.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

Adult to adult introductions tend to be the trickiest, this is likely why the two twins were suggested instead. If you are taking them back, to try out another guy instead.. then thats okay  The twins prob have a better chance of being readopted than the lone male would anyways. So yay! Maybe he will take to litter training a bit easier.. being an older gentleman that he is. lol


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

Ya, the twins are real cute to watch, but they have almost the exact same color scheme as my current rat, and I don't know how I'll be able to tell them apart once they grow up.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

Yeah it is nice to have a bit of a variety in your cage! Although I have had rats with identical color/markings before, you can learn to tell them apart by conformation and personality. Keep us updated with what you decide to do. Is it all riding on if they can be litter trained? Or do you already know in your heart what you plan to do?


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

I wanna say alot of it rides on the litter training, but part of me wants to give the swap a shot. I really enjoy free range rats, but watching 3 would be way too difficult. Not to mention it would be nice to have some visual variety.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

Then go for it, before the twins get too settled there. An older boy is more likely to stay in the same area, so may be more ideal if your worried about watching them during free ranging.


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

Curious, but how do you "spot clean" urine? Its really the urine thats causing the smell, not the poop.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

Depends what bedding your using. I use newspaper, which makes it super easy to just lift out and throw away. If your levels and shelves are uncovered.. you can often just wipe them down with a disinfectant wipe. If they are covered in fleece, you can wash and reuse every 2-3 days. If its an absorbent bedding, theres nothing you can do except throw it out.


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

How often do you clean your cage? Back when I had 1-2 rats, I changed the bedding twice a week and scrubbed the pan down with soap and water once a week. I scrubbed the entire cage once a month.


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

I'm going to exchange the babies for an adult rat that has a history of not getting along with other rats. He looks almost exactly like the one that passed, so maybe its fate? 

Anyways, I hope the two learn to get along eventually. I washed my rat and am going to bring some vanilla extract to dabble onto him.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

I empty and refill litter pans, wash and refill water bowls, wipe down levels with disinfectant wipes, refill food dishes, vacuum around the cages, wipe down the glass on one of my cages, do a general tidy up and remove any old/soiled food daily.

I take out and replace the newspaper and shredded paper bedding, empty/rinse and refill water bottles every second day.

I wash/replace any fleece (hammocks etc) every three days. 

Once a week I empty the cages and litter boxes completely and disinfect everything. Scrub the bars, bowls, water bottles etc. And I wipe down the sides/walls around the cages. 

This way I find cleaning super easy and quick... its just an everyday thing you have to keep on top of. I have four cages in my bedroom and there is zero smell.

Be sure to post pics of your new boy once you get him! I'm sure your boys can learn to love each other eventually. Is the new boy neutered? that might help with intros.


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

Wow, that is intense. 

One thing I'm curious about is the litter tray. I've noticed that sometimes my rat will not poop in the tray if I give it a good scrub down, probably because it no longer smells distinct anymore. Do your rats do that?


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

So the introduction did not go so well. The other rat was clearly an alpha-alpha male and wanted no business with other rats. He tried to bite my rat and the rescue lady thankfully intervened, but she took a bullet and ended up having a bit hand.

She says that my rat is very well socialized, and with the amount of attention and freedom I give it, it might just do fine on its own. She says she will contact me if she gets a lone male or a spayed female, and she also has someone else looking for 2 boys, so the twins should have a good home soon.

I ran into my neighbor on the way back, and she is looking to get a rat for her son too, so hopefully something good comes out of that.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

Next time you clean out your cage. Go back the next day. Time yourself and see how long it takes you to re-wipe down the levels, do a brief tidy up, refill the dishes and empty the litter box etc. You'll prob be surprised that it only takes a few minutes per cage... which is not that intense to keep your cages tidy and smell free. And when it comes to cleaning day, the cages are not even that dirty... so it takes like 5 minutes a cage to empty and wipe down... So its like taking the same amount of work and breaking it up into smaller easier work loads. 

The only thing that takes a while scrubbing and disinfecting everything once per week. This can be stretched out longer if you keep on top of your cleaning. Sometimes I do it once every 2 weeks, but wipe all the bars down by hand in between. 

I have never personally had any issues with the rats rejecting the litter boxes after I've cleaned them. But I could understand why. Are you cleaning them with anything scented? That could be putting them off. I have high sided litter boxes... I'll snap some pictures for you today. They are just plastic storage tubs I found at a store, they work excellently for keeping the litter in the pans and double up as a perch (or I can get fancy and attach a hammock, or stack them on top of each other and make bunk beds)

Awee I'm sorry to hear it didn't work out with the new boy. Was he quarantined? Was he neutered at all? You'll find a good match for your boy! Keep your eyes peeled. Your boy will be fine alone for a while, but they are always happier with other ratty friends. Don't forget you will have to quarantine anyway, so I would be looking for someone asap. Are there any breeders nearby? Have you tried the SPCA or other animal shelters.

I hope you told your neighbor she should get two, not one. Often the first place the parents turn to is a pet store!


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

The other rat wasn't neutered. He has been with the rescue lady for awhile, so he wasn't sick or anything. He is just a bully. She was telling me how she tried putting him with this super laid back old rat that just wanted to sleep, and he kept trying to bite his tail. 

As for nearby breeders and shelters, there arn't many to pick from. When I first started looking, those were the places I immediately went to. But breeders have long reservation lists and shelters are often for cats and dogs. I'll keep looking of course.

As for my neighbor, I'm going to refer her to the rescue. I'll tell her to get a pair of course, but if her son only wants 1 rat, getting the bully would be a good idea IMO. He is a pretty big rat that is only 5-6mo old, and he does well with humans. He just doesnt like other rats oddly enough. The rescue lady was contemplating neutering him, but this would save her 100$.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

I would still urge you to quarantine at all times, including when you visit any pet stores that sell live animals. Some rats can be carriers and remain visually unaffected. As a rescue, the lady should be more than well aware of this and unless she has the lone male in QT now, it was very irresponsible for her to bring the animal over and risk taking anything your rat has (she doesn't know for sure) getting back to her other rats. QT is one of the most important things for anybody with a group of rats. 

The few months waiting list of a breeder is always worth it over pet store quality rats. The way I look at is, is I could love any rat... but I'd much rather that rat be as healthy and friendly as possible so they stick around for a long time, I don't get swamped with vet bills and I want to enjoy the time its with me. I also want to support good rat friendly sources, to make future change. Stop the supply, end the demand! A good rescue won't adopt out a sick rat, will offer you help and support and will be honest and upfront about the rats needs and temperament. So again, you have a better idea of what your getting into over a pet store rat. 

Good luck with your search and keep us updated!


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

Unfortunately a good quarantine isn't very feasible for me. 

But I'm definitely not going to a pet store.


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## ema-leigh (Jan 24, 2010)

Sometimes quarantine is impossible for people, I understand and I have been in that position myself when I first started owning rats. There are other precautions you could take, but the main thing is to always be aware something could be bought in and keep a close eyes on all your rats. And also get them from the best source available to you. 

When you go to see the rat, make sure their eyes and nose are clear. Check all of the rats there. Their coats should be healthy and shiny. The rats themselves should be bright and curious and okay with being handled (unless otherwise stated.. for example a rescue). Check the place uses the right bedding, feeds a good food, well ventilated cages etc. All of these factors can directly effect the rats health. Smell the rats, the only time they will smell is if kept in dirty conditions (And sometimes from poor food too.) And listen to several of the rats like a telephone, make sure they all sound clear and healthy.


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## Homer117 (Aug 2, 2010)

I do inspect the rat I am considering to adopt, but we meet a place in between, so there is no direct contact with the entire colony.


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