# supplements for rats?



## Mitsy (Apr 8, 2013)

I was on petmsart looking at supplements for my boyfriends dig to tell him about them, and seen that they have some for small animals. does anyone give their rats supplements? whats your opinion on them? would they be a good diea?


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## cagedbirdsinging (May 28, 2012)

It depends on what you want to supplement specifically.


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## Gannyaan (Dec 7, 2012)

Are you referring to vitamin drops? I've seen them as well... Their food is supposed to be well balanced (not like my student diet ) so I don't think they would need them  it's probably just better to make sure they're eating fresh fruits and veggies... Some healthy nuts... Things like that  


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## Mitsy (Apr 8, 2013)

cagedbirdsinging said:


> It depends on what you want to supplement specifically.


Well there's like urinary supplements and I think joint supplements. They are on oxbow but I was thinking the urinary one might be a good idea sense they are girls and can have lots of problems in that area. Also my cat just had crystals so I am thinking I should have all the animals on something for urinary things. 

I am not sure what's in it but its on the pet smart website in the small animals section.


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## cagedbirdsinging (May 28, 2012)

I don't like the idea of supplementing for the maybes. Supplements are great for the inevitable, though, such as liver degradation in males. Or just general supplements for coat and overall condition, like healthy oils.

I would steer away from specific supplements like that.


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## Mitsy (Apr 8, 2013)

cagedbirdsinging said:


> I don't like the idea of supplementing for the maybes. Supplements are great for the inevitable, though, such as liver degradation in males. Or just general supplements for coat and overall condition, like healthy oils.
> 
> I would steer away from specific supplements like that.


Oh ok thanks 


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## DobiePaws (Aug 25, 2013)

I just started using the *Missing Link for Small Animals*. I do believe in supplements, for myself and for my pets. I believe if you give the body what it needs it is better prepared to repair itself and handle daily stresses that can lead to disease. I don't however believe that we really understand what optimal nutrition is for any species ;o( I do not believe any "complete and balanced" diet can be the only thing fed from birth to death and achieve optimal health. So I feed a variety and supplement to fill in as many of the nutritional gaps as possible.


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## Isamurat (Jul 27, 2012)

I feed a lot of suppliments but I think it's important to pick them understand why your using them and when to use them. Take calcium, it's vital especially when rats are young or pregnant, but feed a rich supplement daily and they can't absorb it properly, feed to much and they can get crystals in there urine, yet most adult rat food is to low for babies so you need to add in a bit. I use a mix of vitamin suppliment type things and natural things that are high in certain weak areas of my homemade mix. I think that variety is massively important as part of this but like the reassurance of a couple broad suppliments to mop up the gaps. I could talk you through some of what I use and when it any one is interested but they will be uk available suppliments and I also need to do more than someone feeding an enriched diet like lab blocks which already has some of these added.

Cagedbirdsinging, do you mean kidney issues and boys, I've not seen much at all in the way of liver issues in rats at all but kidneys is a pain in the bum when it comes to older rats and boys


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## Mitsy (Apr 8, 2013)

Isamurat said:


> I feed a lot of suppliments but I think it's important to pick them understand why your using them and when to use them. Take calcium, it's vital especially when rats are young or pregnant, but feed a rich supplement daily and they can't absorb it properly, feed to much and they can get crystals in there urine, yet most adult rat food is to low for babies so you need to add in a bit. I use a mix of vitamin suppliment type things and natural things that are high in certain weak areas of my homemade mix. I think that variety is massively important as part of this but like the reassurance of a couple broad suppliments to mop up the gaps. I could talk you through some of what I use and when it any one is interested but they will be uk available suppliments and I also need to do more than someone feeding an enriched diet like lab blocks which already has some of these added.
> 
> Cagedbirdsinging, do you mean kidney issues and boys, I've not seen much at all in the way of liver issues in rats at all but kidneys is a pain in the bum when it comes to older rats and boys


Ok thanks my rats get oxbow adult rat food and some veggies here and there also with other fresh foods. They don't get them everyday because they try to hide it mostly and then won't take any the next day. 

Is there any kind of supplements that you think are a good thing for rats to have? I just seen the supplements they have on petsmart and started thinking maybe some supplements might be a good idea for the ratties sense they can have a lot of health problems.


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## cagedbirdsinging (May 28, 2012)

Yes, Isamu. I meant kidney!


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## Isamurat (Jul 27, 2012)

In terms of regular supplement’s it does depend a bit on your rats. Here’s some of the main supplement’s I’ve used myself and when I would recommend using them. Some make good general supplement’s (like I would recommend feeding a good oil once a week as a general thing, unless your rat food is fairly high in oil or your rats feel greasy), some are more specific to certain stages of life. There are tonnes more than this but these are the ones I regularly use..

Oils
Linseed / flax oil – useful in protecting the kidneys and helps skin/fur quality, I would give this to most age groups probably once a week (or alternate with another good oil). Older rats over say 18months or those with kidney issues should get it a few times a week, those with dry skin would also benefit from it more often. A few drips fed on a tiny piece of bread, or dripped on a wet meal, or even on their veg works well.

Salmon/ cod liver oil – great for young rats and those lactating, useful for others. For young and lactating rats I would feed it 1-2 times a week, no more as its high in vitamin A which can be toxic at a relatively low dose, but is also high in vitamin D and omega oils. Similar amount to the above, but be more careful not to give loads.

Other oils – Mixed Omega Oils, Olive Oil, Evening Primrose oil etc. Try and make sure you use good quality oils, that you don’t get too much at once and keep them cool (or they go off), these oils are all good alternatives but don’t have something specific that they are good for like the other two. Don’t give them things high in saturated fats.

Powdered and liquid suppliments mixes 

VitC + Probiotic – these kind of supplement’s are often sold as small animal vitamin supplements in pet shops. Vit C can help boost the immune system a little and a probiotic in theory helps promote good bacteria. This makes them useful with ill rats or one you know might be susceptible to illness before a period of lots of stress (e.g. a house move or an introduction).

Broad spectrum - try and aim for ones that add in vitamin D, copper and calcium, without adding loads of vitamin A. They are useful especially with growing rats whose requirements are significantly higher than an adult rat. If it adds in calcium feed a maximum of 5 days a week to give the body time to process the calcium on the down days. On an enriched diet youngsters will benefit from it 1-2 days a week. On an unenriched or home-made grain type diet then 4-5 days a week for youngsters and 2-3 days a week for adults works.

Calcium (sometimes with vitamin d) – very good for young growing rats and pregnant, feed them this 2-3 days a week unless your diet is short in it then up that to 4-5 days a week. Adults shouldn’t need any unless your diet is low in calcium (see above). Oldies can benefit from it if you see there teeth starting to look translucent, this is a sign that kidney issues are present causing a difficulty in absorbing minerals which leads to a calcium deficiency, don’t feed loads though as it is possible to over do it, and it not only impacts the kidneys but can lead to bladder stones.

Blood and bone powder – a form of calcium supplement sold for ferrets and dogs, also full of iron. I would sprinkle a pinch on wet food once a month for adults, more often for youngsters.

Seaweed powder – full of minerals, really good for young growing rats (feed 1-2 times a week, a pinch on wet food) or less often for adults (every couple of weeks).

Senior aid / senilife (senior dog supplement’s) – high in B-vitamins, often with added vitamin C and omega oils too, sometimes including glucosamine – these are great for old rats, especially those with HLD. Feed a couple times a week on wet food.

Nutrical or high calorie pastes – often contain b vitamins too, brilliant for sick rats, can be used to disguise meds, often sold for dogs, cats and ferrets, a very handy first aid kit essential. Try giving them a tiny lick about once a month before they fall ill, that way they get hooked before they get ill. When ill you can give it daily, if they are loosing weight fast give them a decent squirt, if not a pea sized blob works well. I have seen a liver paste which is similarly useful but is also high in copper, just limit to once a week as liver is high in vit a.

Other items that are useful

Bones – probably the single best left over for rats, make sure they don’t have too much meat on unless they are going to youngsters, it’s a good idea to have cooked bones as they keep a little better. A chicken bone per rat per week is fine, a full chicken carcass will quickly be devoured by a hoard of babies too. You could also give a large roasted dog bone for a long term treat, throwing it out when it starts smelling too much (they like to wee on them). Limit these for older rats as they put a bit of strain on the kidneys, maybe 1 small chicken bone a month when over 18 months.

Cuttlebones – sold for parrots and birds, very popular with pregnant rats and babies. One a month should be fine for adults, they tend to like them more when they need more calcium and can ignore otherwise. Try hanging on the bars to encourage eating.

Liver – can be cooked and offered to the rats like that, or blended, addeded to a bit of flour and egg, baked in a sheet and cut into home made liver biscuits. A great copper supplement, the buscuits can also have other suppliments added to make them a rat vitamin biscuit. I feed a max of 1 x 1cmx1cm biscuit a day as its high in vit A.

Horse/dog treats – try and get natural ones without lots of cheap filler ingredients (like chaff, wheat/straw middlings etc). Look for a purpose like high copper content (over 20mg/kg), and break into rat sized chunks. I currently have some lovely mint and apple horse treats with 40mg/kg copper content and added multivitamins the rats get 1/6 of a day (that’s about 1cm cubed).

Cat/kitten/puppy natural treats – get ones with high meat content, not cheap fillers and rubbish, these are high protein so brilliant for youngesters and topping them up when they are on an adult diet

Seeds and nuts – get them in the shells, pumpkin are particularly good, they are high in protein and good oils so make a good occasional snack. Maybe one seed a day for a younger rat or 1 larger nut a week. For adult rats a couple of seeds a week or a nut every fortnight works too. If humans can eat them they rats should be fine. Pumpkin seeds, brazil, hazelnuts, walnuts and almonds are great, for a lower fat treat (especially if a rat needs bulking up) try chestnuts (sweet only, not horse chesnuts which are toxic to rats and humans) as they are lower in fat but have good carb content. Some smaller seeds make a great foraging mix and offer good copper content (like seasame seeds), they are also full of good oils (like linseed and hemp seed) but rats unfamiliar with foraging or small seeds may struggle to find them so a small amount sprinkled on wet food can be an alternative.

Egg and egg shells – great for calcium, vitamin d, protein and fat. The yoke contains mainly fat and not much protein, the white mainly protein and not much fat. The shell is full of calcium. Serve cooked or if your feeding raw make sure its pasteurised (and look forward to a horrible cleaning up session as they are very messy) otherwise salmonella is a risk.


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## BasmatiRice (Feb 11, 2012)

Sorry to invade this thread, but my older girl, Min who is a rex pew, has been a bit itchy (even though she was dewormed(?) a few weeks ago) and I've noticed she's shedding quite a bit. I have a supplement for cats which contains linoleic (70%) and gamma linoleic (10%) acid (composition: raw fat:100g; raw cellulose:78g; total ash: 0.009% - analytical values for 100g according to the flask).

Can I give it to her to help with her fur and skin? Also they advise 5 daily drops for kittens, having in mind she weights little over 300g, how much should I give her?

Again, sorry for the intrusion  and thanks in advance for any help.


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## Isamurat (Jul 27, 2012)

what was she dewormed with? If it wasnt something containing ivermetcin it wont have done much for any lice/mites she might have.

In terms of dietry i would stick with giving her a little good quality oil daily (e.g. olive oil), watching what protien your feeding her and if her skin is very dry brushing a little oil through her coat. That suppliment does seem to be effectively oil but i dont know what the quality is like.


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## BasmatiRice (Feb 11, 2012)

It was Ivomec, apparently for cattle? Her veterinarian did it 
This oil is working great on my cat, she had sort of dandruff and it's mostly gone. But I can do with a bit of olive oil I guess.  thanks


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